DMZ

The guys in our group got lucky and were able to schedule a private tour of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) that separated North and South Vietnam between 1954 and 1975.

Our entire group, which now consists of ten members, left Hanoi on a night bus with the intention of going to Hue. There was a little confusion leaving the city because we all bought 'Open Tour' bus tickets. These tickets originate in Hanoi and stop at every major city down the coast of Vietnam, allowing tourists to get on and off the bus at designated places. There are three classes of tickets, essentially three kinds of buses, so we bought the middle class, but there was no way to make sure we were on the appropriate bus.

That being said the bus journey was alright. We had a DVD player on board, so the first couple hours we watched the comedy movie Anchorman staring Will Ferrell. After the movie finished, we made a rest stop just south of Ninh Binh and changed to another bus for unknown reasons.

The other bus was comfortable, but there was no DVD player, and didn't look as luxurious. Everyone just slept, listened to music, or read a book. I found it easy to sleep on the bus because I was still tired from the previous night.

In the morning we made another stop for breakfast at a small cafe just south of the DMZ in Dong Ha. The staff of the cafe also ran tours around the DMZ, so our group decided to jump at the chance. We unloaded all our bags off the bus, and told the girls in our group we'd meet them later that night in Hue.

We loaded up in an air-conditioned mini-bus with an English speaking guide who gave us a brief history lesson about Vietnam as we headed north on Highway 1 back towards the DMZ. He told us about the French colonization efforts that started in late 1800s and lasted until the Geneva Convention in 1954 when the DMZ line was drawn around the Ben Hai River.

The first place our guide, Hoa, took us was just south of the river to what he called the 'New Jungle.' Evidentially, during the 1960s many communists from the north were running arms through the DMZ along the Ho Chi Minh Trail, using the jungle for cover, to rebels in the south. When the Americans caught wind of this, they clear cut the jungles using Napalm and Agent Orange just south of the DMZ to expose the hidden trails. The area is newly planted and now being used to grow Rubber Trees.


Rubber Tree

There were acres and acres of Rubber Trees planted in straight lines. The locals cut the trees to bleed the sap in order to make rubber products. According to our guide one of the major products made from the harvested rubber are condoms. He claimed the nickname of the 'New Jungle' is the 'Condom Jungle.'

The next place we went was a short walk through the rubber tree groves, with scattered remnants of sandbags along to the way, to the Con Tien Fire Base. It was a bunker used by top ranking American military officials because of it's secure location. It was situated in such a way the that they could see all the surrounding areas around the DMZ. According to our guide, most military bunkers have now been destroyed, but this one was left preserved because of it's importance during the war.

The third place we went was the Truong Son National Cemetery.


Truong Son National Cemetery

It was made by the communists after the completion of the war to commemorate all the North Vietnamese soldiers that fought and died during the war.



Each grave stone was marked with the persons name, birth date, rank, and the date he/she died. We looked at several grave stones and noticed one boy who joined the army at age nine and died at age twelve. Unbelievable.


Grave stone

Next, we went to one of the original Ho Chi Minh Trail spots where the communists used to sneak across the Ben Hai River. There has been a bridge built on the spot now, but years ago it was used because of the narrow river crossings.


Ben Hai River crossing spot for the original Ho Chi Minh Trail

We then headed back to one of the Rubber Tree groves to see several old bomb craters. The biggest one was more than ten feet deep and wide enough for several people to walk around in.


Andy, Enda, & James in a bomb crater

We also went to a reconstruction of the Hien Luong Bridge. After the Geneva Convention in 1954 there was one, and only one, bridge that crossed the Ben Hai River. In 1968 Americans destroyed the original bridge which marked the immigration point between North and South Vietnam.


Hien Luong Bridge

Our guide then took us into Doc Miu to see an abandoned US military tank left at the side of Highway 1. I can't remember the make of the tank.


US Military tank next to Highway 1

Last, but not least, we went to Vinh Moc and took a tour of the intricate tunnels used by the North Vietnamese to hide from the Americans. Originally, there were three layers of tunnels; First Level 6 meters deep, Second Level 16 meters deep, Third Level 23 meters deep. Due to rain and erosion the first layer is no longer, but the second and third have been left in tact.


Enda entering the Vinh Moc Tunnels

The tunnels were about 150cm tall and just wide enough for one person. There were multiple entrances and exits along the coast and covered by vegetation. Inside the tunnels was very humid, damp, and extremely dark. There were small indentions in some tunnel that were used for meeting rooms, maternity rooms, and schools for children.


James in the tunnel


Andy & I hiding in an exit

The tour was very interesting and a good history lesson. In my mind flashbacks of Platoon, Full Metal Jacket, and Apocalypse Now are ablaze.